More cheaaaase please!

Ah, Gruyères! Where the cows graze with decorative headdresses and massive bells hanging from their necks, the grass grows spring green even in the midst of fall, and the tourists come from near and far to taste the smelly goodness of aged swiss cheese. It's like Disneyland for the cheese lover. There's the cheese factory, cheese souvenirs, restaurants devoted to making cheese a main course in a variety of ways, and then there's the cream. The Gruyères double cream drenched over meringues and fresh strawberries.

Not even a milk allergy could stop me.

Needless to say, I had to bring Marki here. It's just too cute of a village to pass up, especially when the train ride there takes you through the Swiss Alps, granting surreal views of Lake Léman below and farm land clinging to the mountain side. Those cows must have some serious balancing skills to keep from falling down the steep hills like little kids rolling hot dog style down grassy runways. And the little village of Gruyères stands at the top of a hill in the center of all of this, a medieval walled-in city with cobblestone streets and a castle to add to its appeal. I've been here several times before, once when I was eight-years-old when the double cream and strawberry dessert left a permanent mark on my memory; a second time with Chels on our pre-Nice travel adventure; a third time with Nick and Nat on Omi's 81st birthday trip; and finally, a fourth time with Marki. What can I say? I like cheese. And I find it a fabulous thing to share with people.

So between my 7-11am and 6:30-11pm shifts, we hopped on the train and made the nearly hour and a half trip to Gruyères where we ate quiche--what do you know--oozing with the famous cheese and raclette, a typical Swiss mountain tradition that involves heating a block of cheese and scraping off the bubbling goodness layer by layer, placing it over boiled potatoes with lots and lots of grey pepper. Hello heart attack at thirty-five. Then because we could not eat any more, we bought the meringues and a tub of double cream for dessert later that night. Let's just say that I didn't have to eat much dinner after our feast. A short walk around the village to burn 3.1974 calories, and violà! We called it a day!

(Photos courtesy of Marki's camera.)

Grass, cows, cheese, and castles. Yup, it's Switzerland!

Only the beginning. We shared both dishes and I freely admit that we were not total American fatties. We did not finish our food. Thank god.

Waiting for the cheese to melt...

* * *

Flashback...

Nick and Nat eating raclette during our trip two years earlier. It only took us 30 minutes to figure out how the hell the machine actually worked. Step 1: Make sure cheese heater is plugged in. Step 2: Place cheese block under heater. Step 3: Wait patiently. Step 4: When the cheese starts to bubble and is begging to be swept away, take special cheese knife and glide it across blistering surface. Step 5: Drench over potatoes and eat eat eat.

The village in April. Not as many people as when Marki and I visited, but with the snow, it felt fake. No way could an actual place look like this

View from the castle.

Only one thing left to do... If I grow my hair out for two long blonde braids, I may just have to move here and change my name to Heidi.

Une petite pause

Today was one of those really good days. Like so good that I don't want to go to sleep and let it end, so I decided to linger over it all once more to share my contentment with you. Here are the highlights:

1. Woke up at my aunt and uncle's house to the sound of my little cousin running around, his high pitched voice beaming down the hallway into the guest bedroom. "Mélanieeee!"

2. Morning coffee with the family and a crackling fire.

3. Talking with my aunt. She is possibly the most kind-hearted, wonderful, warm person I have ever met. You can't help but just be peaceful in her presence.

4. Play time with Yann, the little cus. We made a fort in my room at the hotel, played pirates, and made hamburgers, pizza, french fries, and crêpes for pretend breakfast. Mmm, cholesterol!

5. Sunset. It. Was. Glorious. (See photo below.)

6. Skype dates with four amazing people. Maman, mi padre, Marx, and Shananigans.

7. And finally, one of those great moments when you really feel how lucky you, as if all the planets and stars align and pause for a brief moment of clarity. You are and that's enough. In fact, that's just perfect.

Now go and have a happy day everyone!

And just if you were wondering, this photo is 100% natural. No computer editing, no fiddling, nothing. Say hello to my backyard.

Word of the week: October 19-25th

I've been wanting to start this up for some time now. For those French language lovers out there, hopefully my word of the week will enhance your French vocabulary just a bit. And for those of you who could care less about learning French, no worries. I promise to only to choose words I find entertaining and fun to say. Besides, I thought, what a better way to keep me on the look out for new words! Now, whether or not these words may be incredibly useful, I cannot say. But that is not my intention. You want to learn a word you'll use everyday? Consult your nearest French-English dictionary. Or of course, you could insert these words into everyday language to impress your peers or to sound like a total idiot, but please do not hold me responsible. Just consider me the word fairy, if you will, fluttering around plucking only the most shining and sparkling gems from the already pretty polished bunch.

And now, without further adieu, the word of the week is:

pouf

*pronounciation: like the english word "poof"

*meaning: bean bag (told you these were random)

where I learned it: while talking with my co-workers about the hotel renovations and looking at photos of the new additions to the lobby and future restaurant, I started laughing about how cool it would be to have been bags everywhere. Okay, not quite four-star status, but wouldn't that be awesome?! When I asked my boss how to say "bean bag" in French, he responded with pouf. It was love at first sound.

*additional notes: wordreference.com also gives "pouf" the definition of cushion but bean bag is so much better.

9.10.09: Lucerne in photos

What you need to know:

Lucerne is one of the most visited cities in Switzerland. German-speaking. German pastries, German pretzels, German beer. Located on Lake Lucerne.

The River Ruess in Lucerne. Despite all the Swiss flags, Marki and I were thoroughly confused as to which country we were actually in. A three-hour train ride and suddenly you're surrounded by German-speaking people who look at you strangely when you instinctively respond with "Merci bien." We are so not in French-land anymore.

Trying our best to get acquainted with the city. Hello map-clutching, water bottle-carrying, googly-eyed-looking tourists!

They love their bicycles here. Can you tell?

Mismatched buildings stuck together like lego pieces line the river along the old town, green turning to orange and red-colored ivy squeezing its way in to every free wall space it can find. Hmmm... I wonder what it's like to live in a fairytale city.

The "Lion of Lucerne," famously claimed by Mark Twain to be the "most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world" (thank you Wiki). Commemorating the deaths of the Swiss Guards killed in the French Revolution, the lion is quite impressive. Although, when you're standing in its presence along with a group of camera-happy Asian tourists and platform-wearing, bad ass attitude Swiss teenagers, the emotional effect is slightly lost.

Yes, we are Americans and yes, we indeed found and endorsed the local Starbucks.

Just a little street market. Why is it that fruit and vegetable stands, along with their artfully decorated signs, umbrellas, and apron-clad vendors cultivate such a sense of romance? Or maybe I just love food that much. I think it's a combination of both.

Lucerne's Chapel Bridge and Water Tower. It would be difficult not to find a postcard of Lucerne without one or both of these monuments plastered on the front. The bridge, claimed to be the oldest wooden bridge in Switzerland, dates back to the 14th century. And the tower is likely the most photographed monument in Switzerland!

*Lucerne history and facts brought to you by my trusty handout from the tourist office.

Train ride through farm land and forest back to Lausanne. Tired from a day of walking, eating, drinking, and playing tourist, we were slightly delirious yet we still managed to make a friend...

This little boy found Marki and I to be hilarious--ha, smart kid! It all started by a simple game of peek-a-boo. Then he was dropping things on my head, playing with my hair, and jumping up and down on his mom's lap while Marki made faces at him. And right before his mom led him off the train at their stop, he came over and said goodbye to us. Such a cutie. And his chubby cheeks and pudgy belly made him that much more lovable.

* * *

Along with a bag of hot, roasted chestnuts and a wiener schnitzel lunch (I told you I love food), we had a wonderful day. Lucerne (or Luzern, whichever you prefer), it was a pleasure!

7.10.09: Day 1 with Marki

So seeing as Marki is my first official guest (Hotel Mel is now offering vacancies if any of you are wondering), I wanted to take her everywhere and show her everything. But with two days off this week, yeah, not happening. No worries though. Thankfully Montreux is small enough that an hour of strolling is enough to get a fairly complete tour. We stopped for coffee at the café and made "plans" for the rest of the day. Lakeside walk to Chateau de Chillon, food, wine, relax, then who knows! And obviously since we're us, our chatting followed us throughout the day. Two months is a long period to be apart especially after spending our summer in retirement together. Oh how I long for the seemingly endless days when the most brain-consuming decision we'd have to make would be... eggs or pancakes? Hmmm... that's a toughie.

The weather gods must have known how much I have been hoping and praying for sunshine on Marki's first day in Switzerland so she could experience the lake, the mountains, and drama of the lake meeting up to the mountains. And it was a beautiful autumn day indeed with enormous falling yellow leaves and those brown ones already sacrificed to the ground that make the perfect crunching sound when you jump on them. I took her to most of my favorite spots around Montreux, and we made the trek lakeside to Chateau de Chillon, joining in on all the tourist fun with our cameras hanging from our wrists and rented iPods and earphones that tell you all about the castle's history. I had done the castle thing when I was ten-years-old with my mom and uncle, and it was still a blast this time around. The rooms are remarkably well preserved. I swear, sometimes I'd step into one and I felt catapulted back in time. It could be 1565. Oh god, please no. The toilettes would suck. And the people would seriously smell. Ugh. And the beds would be way too small. And then the lady talking in my ear starts telling the story about Lord Byron and the time he spent at the castle and 2009 feels so wonderful all over again. Ah modernity. How I love you.

Starving after our history lesson, we feasted on Italian-style pizza from a restaurant I have been eyeing since I arrived here. I think I actually lost my focus during our conversation a couple times because the marinara and cheese and ham and mushrooms all swimming in olive oil were consuming every bit of my brain and body capacity for a few isolated moments of heaven. Oh la la la la, cheesy heaven it was.

And just to make sure we did the first day right, we sat by the lake in the sprinkling rain drinking wine out of the bottle. Ah, the Swiss life. You are so good to me.

Hello there fall!

My favorite bench. With one of my favorite people. Love them both.

See? I told you the beds were too small. Yes, the people back then were not graced with as many inches as us modern folk, but they also slept propped up on pillows. No thanks.

Boo!

Looking out from the watchtower.

And finally, picnic dinner! Tuna sandwiches, bread, cheese, wine, salad, and chocolate.

"A good friend is a connection to life--a tie to the past, a road to the future, the key to sanity in a totally insane world." --LOIS WYSE

Thanks Shan :).

An afternoon abroad: Evian-les-Bains

"So, what did you do yesterday?"

"Oh, I just took the boat to France for the afternoon."

Yeah, these words actually came out of my mouth when my co-worker was asking me about my day off. You know, I just decided to go to France for a couple hours and violá. No big deal. I couldn't help but start laughing at how weirdly normal this seemed for a moment.

But onto my actual day... Evian-les-Bains is a charming little town on the lake, about a thirty minute boat ride from Lausanne. And yes, this is the town famous for its water, though you won't find any obnoxious signs or tourist attractions other than the spa in the center of town.

So then, what did I find in Evian? Well, apart from the quaint stores and boutiques and cafés, the highlights include a tiny, two-story bookstore, a bar called Bar à l'église (yes, as in "the bar at the church," and it was directly behind the church for convenient location of purging sins... or drinking them all away), and the sex shops. Yes, I said sex shops. For a town that easily took twenty minutes (max) to walk its entire length, I came across a surprisingly large number of them. Tasteful, but blatent nonetheless. No, I refrained from entering although the thought of browsing through different flavors of edible underwear and his and her's bongade costumes sounded oh-so-appealing. Another time perhaps.

The thing that surprised me the most was the small things I saw that repeatedly reminded me of the fact that I was no longer in Switzerland anymore. There was a Monoprix, PMU, and 8 à huit that immediately transported me back to my semester in Aix. And the fact that I had to use Euros again definitely messed with my head a bit. And finally, when I started walking back down to the dock, I noticed a lonely plaque on a stone wall dedicated to a young man who died during the Nazi occupation. I looked out across the lake and tried to imagine what that life would have been like over sixty years ago. Just on the other side of the lake was neutral (and nearly indifferent) Switzerland with lights and food and safety. And where I stood? Devastation. Starving people. Death. And in relation to the history of Europe, sixty years doesn't seem like much.

I continued walking and thinking, letting the sunny day work it's magic on my soul. And as the boat departed from Evian back to Lausanne, I let my thoughts wander on time and how quickly things can change. I often associate such permanence with the places I visit. Like if I went back ten years later, everything would be exactly as I remembered it. I guess it's easy to assume that when you're not there to see the changes happen gradually, to be a witness to it all, then nothing must be changing.

Maybe that's what drives us to travel. To gain perspective in other places and bring it back home with us. I can already list a number of quintessential American things that I miss that I would have never quite appreciated had I left at all (don't worry, a list will be published in the near future). And at the same time, while I miss those things from the states, I've come to find the small (and sometimes big) differences between the various cities and countries I visit to be endearing and interesting. To see what different people consider "normal" and "habitual" makes you completely reevaluate those words in the first place.

But enough overanalyzing for one post. Here are some photos of my few hours spent in Evian. Sadly, I forgot to snap photos of the sex shops. Maybe I'll make my next visit a tour of adult stores and the clientele. Real investigative journalism kind of stuff. I'll let you know how it goes.

Woman who posed for me in front of 8 à huit. Sadly, my camera did not catch the sparkle from her golden front tooth.

Walking up from the city, I found this park and a number of spectacular, rose-covered villas.

What is it about sailboats that make them so romantic?

The city of Evian.

Catching the sunset on the trip back. Photo taken at the Lausanne port.

Catch-up

Okay, so this week I am devoting myself to a serious game of blog catch-up, so be on the lookout for new posts and photos and stories. Hope you enjoy!

17.10.09

I finally sit down at my computer with a fresh cup of hot, way-too-strong French pressed coffee steaming profusely by my side. The paper cup that I saved from this morning's 6 am coffee at the train station with Marki is a weak stand in for comfort (or a companion), but seeing as it prompts several memories from the past week and a half of Marki and I searching aimlessly through cities to find the largest cup of coffee possible, it makes me smile.

Yes, as you may guess by the tinge of melancholy and nostalgia in my voice, Marki's stay in Switzerland came to an end this morning, which is why I have been avoiding my computer. And my camera. And anything else that may make the tears start flowing. Oh, and what do you know, there they come. Dammit, I knew this was inevitable.

But at the risk of turning this into a cryfest, which I refuse to let happen (or I will just choose to not tell you more about it), I have to admit that the past week and a half was the best week and a half I've had here. Picnic dinners provided by the Coop, coffee dates, being blatant tourists--sneakers and all, train rides, more train rides, wine and chocolate, "cheaaaaase," the epic hike, and plenty more that I will refrain from writing about for now (in some cases, you need the whole story to fully appreciate our adventures).

I know that coming to Switzerland by myself for, well, however long I end up staying, was a great decision. New experiences, some unexpected twists, and some much needed post-grad perspective on my life--all of which I would not have found (at least in the same way) had I stayed in what I knew at home. And as much as I value and need the time I have alone here to think and brainstorm and be, I can't deny how much happier I am when I'm with someone who knows me better than I know myself. But it's more than just a comfort thing. Yeah, obviously walking and talking and caféing with one of my best friends is more fun than doing it all in silence by myself. Duh, no surprise there. But what I realized on the second day of Marki's visit during a rainy afternoon in Vevey is that I am the best version of myself when I'm with the people I love. I care less about what other people think and I make choices based on what I feel and want and need--something I have struggled to do since I was little.

So perspective on life? It's actually pretty simple. Strolling lakeside with Starbucks coffee cups glued to our hands, Marki said it perfectly. "Life is short. Why not spend it with the people you love?" I'm sure you've all heard this a thousand times, maybe more. And although I'm not one for clichés (I personally despise them), this one is undoubtedly true and consequently vital to my own happiness--and sanity. Maybe I am missing out on some great friendships by not morphing into the social butterfly I could be with my co-workers, going out, bar hopping and dancing on tables. But when you already have friends like mine, a quiet evening alone doesn't sound so bad. Especially when it involves planning your future life with your best friends.

So of all the great things this post-grad gap year could teach me, I'd say the most important is realizing what I want and what makes me happy. Being with my best friends? Yeah, I think you get the picture. Oh, and those Starbucks cups I mentioned? I still have them both, and no, I have no intention of throwing them away even if they are merely paper cups.

See what I mean?

P.S. Marx, if it wasn't already clear, I miss you. A lot.

P.P.S. And since I find it only appropriate, here are some wise words from Dave Matthews that have been hanging on my wall for the past five years. (Thanks Marki. :)

Hey my friend,

It seems your eyes are troubled.

Care to share, your time with me?

I know you say you're feeling low and so

A good idea would be to get it off of your mind.

See you and me

Have a better time then most can dream of,

Have it better than the best,

So let's get the pull on through.

Whatever tears at us, whatever holds us down,

If nothing can be done,

We've got the best of what's around.

Chinese food and gummi bears. Mmm. Delicious!

A night off of work and what to do... Ah! So many choices. Wine tasting in Lavaux? Drinks and dinner in Lausanne? Or, I could start drinking with Marki at 3:30 in the afternoon while she plans the rest of her epic trip and I relish in the fact that I can get drunk in the afternoon and not worry about going off to work in a few hours... Oh yeah, follow that by chinese food take out, more bottles of cheap wine, and a dessert of Haribo gummi bears and chocolate. I bet you can't guess what we did! Was it a success, then? Well, considering that my teeth looked as if I had dyed them a rich, deep shade of burgundy by the time I went to get ready for bed, I suppose calling operation night off a smashing success would be an understatement. Add a little Gossip Girl to the equation and there you have it. One fabulous night off and night in. Oh the Swiss life, how I love you.

And you can't really blame us for wanting to stay in and save our energy for the adventures of today and tomorrow. Armed with as many layers of warm clothes as possible, Marx and I are trekking to Chamonix today. As in the Mont Blanc, the highest point in Western Europe and the third most visited natural site in the world! According to Wikipedia that is. If all goes according to plan (and the probability of this happening is slim), travel time will take about four hours before we get to the valley city of Chamonix. Perhaps some hiking, city-walking, eating, and drinking. I'm pretty sure our itinerary will be close to that. And tomorrow morning, a gondola ride up to Aiguille de midi. Google it for kicks and then you can be jealous :).

Okay, time to get ready. Don't worry, my camera (and brain) is fully charged. Plenty of updates when we get back! La la la love you all.